Pattern fitting

 

My first try of a silhouette pattern, the #3009 Capri pant.  I love Peggy Sagers YouTube videos and thought I would give one of her patterns a try.  Great instructions and lovely pattern but I’ve got a funny crease/weird bit on the front crotch area on my right side.  Not sure if it’s bad sewing or a fitting issue.  If anyone can help please feel free to comment.  It’s a damn shame you are IBFs or there might be some help forthcoming!

However the Capri trousers are so comfy to wear.  The material is a linen mix and I could see myself wearing these a lot in the summer and if I fix the crease/wrinkle thingy I shall make more and change the leg width and length etc for a few style options.  The recommended size to sew is taken from a sitting hip measurement and the waist adjusted by darts and the four piece waistband.  The pockets are lovely and there are some great fitting tips in the instructions.  I would highly recommend the pattern and am encouraged to buy more Silhouette patterns.  The pattern packet photo is not greatly inspiring but the end result is very pleasing.  This was the easiest fly zip instruction and insertion I have ever done.  The postage and pattern cost approx £15.00 in all and it took about 5 days to arrive.  It was very easy to trace and huge amount of sizes to choose.   Sorry about the photos but I rolled my TATB Agnes top up so the waistband of the Capris could be viewed, I am never properly ready for photos.  Be grateful I try to hide my weird grimacing face which tends to be my normal photo look!

My other make which I am a bit cross about is a Nina Lee Carnaby dress

Now I love this pattern and used my seasalt needlecord to make this version but I must have done something weird as the fit is off.  It bunches at the neckline and shoulders so I think it must be tight and I must have sewn or cut badly at the pocket side seams as it pulls into an odd shape there rather than falling straight.  Anyway I shall still be wearing it.  I’m always optimistic that if I wear and wash anything enough it will miraculously mold itself to my shape.  Ever hopeful.

My last make I havent even photographed, a farfar cardigan by Wardrobe by Me.  It’s hubbies and he wanted it large.  It’s a better attempt than last time but not sure I want to share it yet!  Okay I relent……

It’s not going to win the cosy cardi challenge that’s for sure!  Love you all IBFs, happy sewing!

update ****

advice from the lovely Peggy Sagers

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The pant crotch is too wide for you as I suspect the whole pant is a bit
large…but you can have it that way…however, to fix the crotch, scoop
it as shown in this drawing and that will fix the center wrinkles, only
take enough out to get rid of the wrinkles…too much will cause other
issues…the depth of the scoop should be about 1/2 inch…let me
know…thanks, Peggy

Thanks Peggy not perfect but improved.

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Closet Case Patterns – mid rise Ginger Jeans

 

Well they are not ginger and they are perhaps not perfect but this was a lovely pattern that came together easily and quickly.

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Lets start at the beginning.  I had my eye on the pattern last year and persuaded hubby that this was a great birthday present (he always likes ideas for gifts and never sticks to just one present).  I have got used to the idea of PDF patterns as being a great idea although I nearly got caught out by my computer failing out of the blue at the end of last year.  Belt and braces being my middle names saved the day there.  So I duly printed and stuck the pattern together, ummed and aaahhed and got on with sewing everything but the gingers.  I think I was a bit in awe of them, all those perfect top stitched, flat felled, well fitted, happy jeaned people on social media flashing their skills and joy at me, dissing RTW as poor fitting cousins, hardly worthy of a second glance.  The thing is I seem to fit in to ready to wear jeans okay and find them good value for money.  I also think the fabrics that they use in RTW are often far superior to my ability to source the perfect project companion.   I just like/love sewing.

Common sense prevailed re making these little puppies up and I had some geometric stretch denim (ish) material which was a bargain price in the stash and for the life of me couldn’t think what  else I would use it for.  It’s original purchase purpose escapes me, truth be known it was probably the price that attracted me.  I thought I would make the gingers out of this material as a wearable toile (my get out of jail phrase for anything that might go wrong).  The material was stretch but not so much across the weft but more down the vertical line (warp?) which I thought was a bit odd but even more reason to use this stuff and try it out.  According to my measurements I cut out a size 10 in pattern and fabrics for the stovepipe design. I decided to sew the pockets and stays in lining fabric, budget priced cotton lawn and faced the waistband in the same. I interfaced the fly thingys but not the waistband.   I never think of this type of finish being jeans as all my jeans tend to be all over denim but it matters not what you call them as far as I am concerned.

All the fiddly little bits are dealt with first in the pattern directions, the pocket assembly with facings and lining and interfacing bits and bobs before attacking the fly zip insertion.  Now because usually you have the right side of the lining in the pocket it made me doubt myself more than once making these up with the right side of the lining facing into the inside of the jeans but I did as I was told.  I struggled a bit with the idea of having the lining wrong side showing inside the pocket but it does mean that when you look inside your jeans the right side of the lining smiles back.  I used the instructions that come with the PDF but belt and braces again I used the blog on the closet case site and watched a YouTuber video that a vlogger had made to help with getting the construction right.  I tend to cut out one day and start construction the next which I find suits me otherwise I tend to skip transferring the notches and markings properly as I get too impatient with myself and inevitably bodge the lot.

When it came to the zipper fly construction (in spite of making trousers and skirts quite successfully with them previously, I have never really understood this type of insertion) I read the accompanying blog post and didn’t really get it however I totally got it when I got near the end of making these up. It was a proper job light bulb learning and I now understand why you position the zip where you do and the effect it has on the depth of the fly to the trouser or skirt front.   The waist size is not affected. Consequently these do not have much of an overlap on the fly but I now know how to avoid this in the future (wearable toile only for this pair).  I didn’t worry too much about flat felled seams but overlocked and did two lines of top stitching on the overlocked seam (from the right side). I think this is known as a faux flat fell seam. I did it in a similar colour to the fabric rather than in a highly visible contrast stitching where every stitch is a potentially glaring error . I made a small slit at the ankle on the outer seam having seen a Mimi G tutorial for a pattern I haven’t got ( I think it is an Autumn 18 new release one) as I liked the finish. 007369d1-243b-4d28-8101-9b5c0e570d2b-e1537730107245.jpeg

I did have to look up how to do a blind hem and I think this is the first blind hem I’ve done on this machine. For the waistband I decided to insert the belt loops under the lower end of the waistband for strength  (tack them in position right sides facing before attaching the waistband) as I often end up using a belt when the jeans loosen up during wear.  I attached the waistband facing  and when all constructed and top stitched I flipped the belt loops up allowing a bit of play at the lower end and top stitched the other end of the loops in on the top of waistband using the existing topstitching as a guide.  I forgot to interface where the button and buttonhole will go on the waistband and jibbed out on doing a buttonhole just in case it all went wrong cos as things stood these might be worn. Instead I did a hook and bar closure more in keeping with a fitted trouser and I didn’t do rivets on the pockets either.  The back pockets were too low which a few people have made comments on so I did these at the end of construction, a little higher than the pattern markings. My fly shield was not brilliantly placed but as the fly was not my best work I didn’t fuss.

My biggest surprise was that these fitted with no fit adjustments (other than about 2 inches off the length and trimming the excess off the waistband) as normally I have to faff about quite a bit especially with the yoke pieces and crotch depth as well. Heather Lou comments on how she adjusted this after pattern tester feedback and released an updated pattern. I love the pocket stays but not sure how they would have turned out in denim (maybe a bit bulky?) and I love the waistband being faced in lawn. Really happy with these and if I didn’t have so many pairs of jeans I would make another pair right away.  I think I will probably will buy the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans as well as I can’t resist something everyone (?) else comments on favourably but so glad I made these and would highly recommend them.

So it seems the big four patterns will have to wait a bit longer, I’m still sewing the Indie ones! Okay IBFs ….see you soon, just off to cut out a proper Nina Lee Carnaby dress in needlecord. Let’s hope it turns out okay. Happy sewing.

Ziggi no more

CDA788D0-C399-41DD-A69F-3BB1A19D3969Oh dear … may I present the Style Arc Ziggi.

Here it was yesterday:

I came to the decision that this pattern is not salvageable and showed it the seam ripper.  I now have three chewed up zips, a pile of faux leather, thread, lining and interfacing and a rather expensive Indie pattern with very sparse instructions……goodbye my friend, you tortured me for many an hour.  As far as I am concerned this little number can go the same way:

The sew over it Vintage Shirt Dress.

Unfortunately this wearable toile has no attraction for me so it’s another wasted pattern as far as I am concerned and anything that requires a buttonhole will be treated with the same  disparagement in the future.  Poppers and zips rule.  Onward and upward IBFs, back to the drawing board.  I still have the closet case mid rise gingers to attempt/murder and then I think mainstream patterns all the way.  See you soon for more ways to waste your time and money but still be strangely attached to something you have very little skill for.

August sewing

Carnaby Nina Lee dress6167Nina Lee Carnaby dress

Well here we all are together again.  This dress from Nina Lee is lovely.  I’ve seen so many lovely versions of the Carnaby dress and have made this as wearable toile.  The fabric is a glitter linen from Minerva crafts and unfortunately It was a little sheer when made up so I had to line it with some lightweight cotton also from Minerva crafts.  I posted a review on patternreview.com   For inspiration as this (my) version doesn’t do the pattern justice try #carnaby dress (instagram) or see Like Sew Amazing vlog or Daffodiledger vlog on YouTube.  Di is closer to my age and Sarah is a younger vlogger (late 30 to early 40s). The only reason I say this is because of the way they both look fantastic in their versions and sometimes there is a bit of a niggle about how the over 50 sewing community are possibly ignored by the Indie pattern companies but this pattern works on younger and over 50s.  I hoped that Di might post on the pattern review website but to date she hasn’t.

carrie trousers SOI6161Sew over it Carrie trousers and RTW (Asda) top

I have had this pattern for a while as I bought the online trouser class from sew over it and both the ultimate trouser and Carrie patterns were included.  Personally I found the class expensive and not brilliant but my expectations were probably far too high.  Others have mentioned what good tips were included.  Making these trousers just happened to coincide with the pattern being released as one of the pdf club patterns.  I was simply trying to use up some fabric from the stash as I had bought this rayon type fabric for a kimono or similar from Minerva crafts a while ago and having made one Kimono couldn’t see myself needing another.  They are okay and I slop around the house, watch YouTube, read sewing blogs and generally laze around wearing these.  Can’t get over excited, they have elastic in the back, a flat front band and pockets, loose fit and I think pretty comfortable.

Mimi G simplicity 1167 trousers and McCalls 6729 top

Love the MimiG sew-a-long videos and buy those patterns whenever the half price deals come up.  Only problem is knowing which size pattern to buy as I straddle the middle sizes and if there is a top and trouser option I have to have the larger size for the top and smaller for the waist hips.  I know I could grade which is what I had to do here as the pattern had a blazer and a trouser option and I chose the pattern based on my bust size.  I had to grade the pattern down several inches and lost pocket opening size especially on one side as I wasn’t incredibly accurate or symmetrical and made the changes when the pattern was made up.  I know some clever souls measure the pattern and make adjustments before cutting but guess what…… nope not able to do that yet as I tend to forget seam allowance etc.  Also the ease needed I find is difficult to assess unless it’s a previously tried pattern.  Having made up the trousers and adjusted them I have now traced the original pattern pieces and made the changes to the traced pattern so that next time I should have proper sized pockets and the symmetry on both sides.  I have still left some wiggle room for less stretch in the fabric but I needed to take two inches off each side and 2.5 inches out of the centre back with this pair when using size 16 so it was not really surprising that the pockets suffered.  I expect I will find, if I ever make up the blazer, that I could have got away with the smaller sized pattern but that’s a live and learn thing. The pictures I have taken are not brilliant but they give a flavour of what it all looks like.  The fabric is a stretch denim from myfabrics.co.uk

The top is a nice simple one with keyhole opening at the back and a thread loop and button closure. I think I could skim the sides in a bit to make it a bit more fitted but it’s nice and airy as it is.  I used some seasalt cotton voile, which was in the sale.

Well that’s all lovely IBFs.  I have plans to make some more Nina Lee Carnaby dresses with a couple of tweaks to fit and a few other things but I like to keep it fluid.  Decided to do less indie and more from the standard big four or whatever people term them.  I have loads of patterns, some free with sewing mags and some bought when the patterns were on sale and a few Indie ones which I normally buy as PDFs to save on cost(?!!!).  Might even try and finish the Style Arc ziggi which is languishing on the mannequin currently.  It sits on top of the Sew Over It Vintage Shirt Dress which I made a wearable toile of.  Not keen on the VSD for me but a huge fan of the Ziggi however not so much the really sparse instructions……..grrrrr! Keep on sewing.

Shall I shan’t I?

 

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Cat in houses pink cotton fabric from BST ltd. shorts butterick 5044 medium view C/D with pockets from A and shortened

Well I don’t know…. shall I continue blogging or not?  It seems there aren’t too many other people interested in my meanderings but strangely I quite like the fact that no one’s very bothered about my sewing journey.  It sort of reflects my life really and I feel I can be quite honest as I’m not upsetting anyone.  I hate upsetting people and don’t like being upset myself.  I often (not that often) open my gob after I have bottled stuff up for ages and then a load of mismanaged, poorly formed ranting and abuse pours out which I instantly regret but obviously it’s been released, heard and hurt, causing no end of upset and consequence.  Anyway so what, that’s not what I’m blogging about….honesty re sewing is more what I want to write about as it sort of documents things somewhere where I can find them.  I do document my makes with notes but not in a consistent place so I often can’t revisit my notes quickly for reference.  Di of Daffodiledger vlog  showed a lovely sketch pad journal that she had received as a prize from Sewstainability@wordpress.com which is actually what prompted me to think about doing a blog update. If you read this sewstainability I couldn’t see all the pictures on your July blog or comment to tell you!  I don’t think you will see this so never mind!  Anyway I think I might try to source the sketch pad journally thing.

I wore loads of my latest makes on a recent holiday. I have been trying to make more tops as this is where I need more practise in fit and design.  I’ll insert a few pics to help highlight the problems.  I was ever so pleased that I managed to wear something me made every day and even elicited a positive comment from a store assistant in Corfu Town regarding my me made (very hastily pre departure) cross body holiday bag.  I was delighted but also highly embarrassed as the stitching was definitely not the best although she kindly said, “ trust me, the stitching is fine”. She had commented on the unusual design and how nice it was…..ooh I have been waiting a long time for a comment like that! My Hubbie found it funny but he was quite chuffed for me.  I’m keen to show you the things I made and some will be quite old ( circa 4-5 yrs when I first dipped into the wonderful world of sewing).

summer makes 20186135

The above are quite recent makes

1. Butterick culottes size 14 B6178 Black linen  (myfabrics.co.uk online) with simplicity 1693 green floral lawn like cotton from Sew Fabric size 14 view c without an overlay

2. Butterick culottes 6178 blue linen my fabrics.co.uk & sew over it London Susie blouse size 16 (adjusted as it was too big to closer to 14/12 fit) using seasalt cotton voile fabric

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Butterick 6178 & soi london susie blouse

3. B6178 and simplicity 1693 (blue and black viscose Minerva crafts)

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4. B6178 black linen with Peppermint Mag in the folds Ruffle sleeve top free pattern Size 16 graded to 14 blue viscose with yellow flowers -Minerva crafts

summer makes 20186143

B6178 &in the folds ruffle sleeve top

5. Butterick 6178 blue linen – myfabrics.co.uk and sew over it Lulu top – blue cotton fabric with ? Birds -Sew fabric

Butterick 6178 culottes & sew over it London Lulu top

6. Butterick 6178 black linen with simplicity K1467 size 16 view A – purple tana lawn not completely sure from where but it will have been heavily discounted!

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Simplicity K1467 & b6178

 

 

Same deal left to right working across:

1. Simplicity 6210 knit fabric (very first dress shortened from maxi to just below knee) Truro fabrics and my cross nody handbag with adjustable straps and 2 added pockets and top zip. Also has a key fob.  Elephant print cotton (BST ltd I think) and green faux leather(crafters companion).  Strap adjuster applied using Debbie Shore’s helpful YouTube vlog.

2. Burda 7062 view b- bengaline stretch fabric from BST ltd online

3. Sew over it London Lulu dress with pockets removed when dress made smaller at side seams and a tie belt added in the same fabric to help give shape. Blue floral cotton – eBay

4. Lulu dress again.

5. New look 6500 view c cut size 16 but reduced to 14 ish top and blended to 12 ish waist and hips.  Seasalt floral linen I metre used.  Facings cut from blue linen

6. New look 6500

7. Tanya whelan – sew many dresses sew little time book. Excellent mix and match bodice and skirt options in this book.  Blue paisley cotton from Sew Fabric

8. Butterick 5044shorts in grey polka dot cotton from Truro fabrics – elasticated waist & pockets so comfy

Left to right again

1. Sew Over it London Zoe dress blue cotton fabric not sure where from but possibly Minerva crafts or myfabric.co.uk

2. Zoe dress again – pockets elevated in side seams, sway back adjustment, narrow shoulder adjustment and added 2 inches to length

3. Orla dress by True Navy free pattern – cotton from the Sewing Studio

4. Sew over it Lulu top that needs the gathers and bias neckline adjusted and reworked ASAP.  Fabric- Sew Fabric . Trousers -M&S RTW.

5. Tanya whelan book :Sew many Dresses Sew little time mix and match bodices and skirts in poppy print cotton from somewhere

6. Tanya Whelan again with a lovely soft drapey fabric from eBay and paired with a handy light weight cardie

 

Well I hope you enjoy this blog my lovely IBFs xx

 

Sewing March and April

 

Well its been a while.  Not really sure why I haven’t posted anything recently other than I have been busy sewing. I’ve posted a few pictures of my makes here but I have sewn a lot of toiles and cut a lot of patterns and downloaded a lot of PDFs.  I made a FarFar fleece Cardigan (Wardrobe by me patterns) for my selfless sewing makes and Hubby wears it (around the house!)  It’s not my finest sewing – I did the shawl collar version and no amount of pressing makes up for the poor cutting out of that band!  I rush things and don’t pay attention to detail and just want to get going, get sewing, get finished, look at a wonderful garment……probably just need to focus on getting each process done well and not be so keen to see the end product before it’s been properly assembled given the correct amount of focus and care

.farfar.jpg this is the offending Wardrobe by me FarFar which I made badly for the hubby but is wonderfully comfortable (for around the house at least).  Don’t judge the pattern ….it was definitely my careless sewing and/or cutting that caused the weirdness although some of it is poor photography as well!

 

I made the Sew over it London Chloe Coat……. eventually.  I bought the online class when it was on sale but I thought there was a lot that could be improved with the class.  I couldn’t discern a couple of steps as the camera work in places was not brilliant.  Having watched people like Debbie Shore and Angela Kane on YouTube and seen the way that they film their tutorials it seems a shame that Lisa Comfort hasn’t managed to do a similar thing with her online classes but who am I to critisise just look at my offerings.  There is a lack of pictures/diagrams in the written instructions and so if you can’t work out the video steps then there is no back up to look at.  Having said that I did figure it out eventually but I was really annoyed at myself by that stage and my fabric was really falling to bits.   I said I wouldn’t buy another online class after I felt a bit let down by the ultimate trouser one but there have been so many coats out there that I really wanted to try one and thought this would be my best option.  For some people it would be great but for me not so much. Other people have posted wonderful Chloe coats but I have seen a couple of comments that concur with my thoughts.  I did contact sew over it but they couldn’t really help without seeing pictures of what I was saying and tbh I really didn’t bother photoing (I’m not an iPhone touting younger person) each mistake and wrong turn, I was too busy unpicking, re-sewing, swearing, shouting, unpicking, re-sewing, swearing, shouting…..you get the gist? Eventually I got there but I’m not entirely happy.  Its a bit big and there seem to be a couple of glitches which I could fix but I’m going to put it to bed for a little bit and look at it in coat season when the trials and tribulations will be a fond memory of what fun I had making my first coat.   Having followed MimiG style sewalongs on YouTube and having had some success with the Moto jacket (8174) which I blogged about before,  I am quite keen to try out a couple of her other patterns and plan to do the 1167  and 8222.  The cost of the pattern on sale with the free video sew along on YouTube seems really affordable and although its not perfect neither were the online classes I paid for.  A bonus of buying Simplicity (MimiG Style are in the simplicity range) and New Look patterns is that my local sewing shop does a pattern club card where you get a pattern free once you’ve filled the card and then when the new season releases are out I will be able to get one of the latest ones free. As I buy the patterns when they are on sale it does make it very affordable.

Anyway here are some of the other sews:  brown denim Burda Trousers 6534

 

Here is the Chloe Coat from Sew Over It London:

 

 

There’s also been the Sew- Zoe Dress and a pair of PJ trousers with cats and dogs in lightweight cotton.  I think the pattern number is New Look 6216.  The Zoe dress I toiled in calico and made some changes and it looked pretty good but then I used this sort of chambray material which I have been holding on to forever and a day and its a bit too flimsy to hold the shape of the princess seams and inseam pockets.  I should have interfaced the pocket seams I think but also its now a bit big in the flimsier fabric so I will have to adjust it a bit more.  Not much point in doing the toile unless you use very similar fabric.  Never mind …try, try and try again.  Also please excuse the unfinished hemlines – sleeves and bottom hem – was waiting to adjust the fit first!

 

well thats it IBFs until I blog again.  Have some great sewing and don’t worry about my moans and whines…..I love sewing!

cross stitch mums cushion

Mums cross stitch. I had no idea how to use it so reverse appliquéd it into a cushion – could centre it better next time!

 

 

 

Pleased at last!

Okay so it’s only one make but at last I’m pleased with the result… don’t burst my bubble you lovely IBFs by giving harsh appraisals of the finished result!  May this little ol’ sewist present to you all…..The Simplicity  MimiG Style 8174 tah dah…!  It’s taken most of this month to make and wasn’t helped by waiting for zips and magnetic clasps, the former being successful,  the latter being left in the packet as not needed  (actually just worried that I might not execute the precision needed therefore as it was an add on not required or even mentioned in the pattern, decided to abstain from gilding this gorgeous lily with those little blighters).  I followed the YouTube MimiG video for much needed help and double checked with paper instructions as needed.  I also checked out the patternreview.com site for any pertinent comments and tips which I always find helpful but such a time-rich task as I can’t just look at one thing and leave, I just have to look, comment, rate, find linked blogs etc, little of which is  necessarily related to the reason I visited the site in the first place.   Anyway.. did I mention how pleased I am with this ……ahem….on trend ……..Jacket?  Fully lined with some lovely Minerva lining fabric it’s made with brown denim from myfabrics.com and the zips came from Minerva crafts … they were helpful in correcting the size of zips I ordered when I didn’t take enough time to check if 75mm was 6 inches…. it’s  not, 15cm is but I got side tracked trying to order other zips for my Style Arc Ziggi pattern… nightmare trying to match colour, size and type of zips when you need all 5 to match.  The metallic buttons used for the side and shoulder tabs were sourced from Truro fabrics who have some totally gorgeous buttons.  The magnetic clasps I was going to use on the collar to fold back against the body of the jacket (which I decided against) came from eBay and matched the antique brass of the zips and the colour of the denim brilliantly.  As I normally pick silver for zips and accessories I didn’t have anything in the stash whic caused the initial delay in getting going with the project.  For the style Arc Ziggi I intend to use silver toothed zips and may use silver magnetic clasps with that one as I will hopefully plan their placement at an early stage which will be less scary and as it may be constructed from faux leather, (which I have bought but am mildly worried about the slight odour de poisson that seems to emanate from it) the weight may need to be held by clasps and additionally the weight of the fabric will support the clasps….?   Rejoice, smile and dance I’m off to wear the thing…… no one mention the dodgy bits….. they’re intentional style choices!  Hope you like it too IBFs.  Happy sewing.