Tag Archives: #heatherlou jeans

October and November – sew sew sew

Well here I am again IBFs and still sewing.  I’ve even had an overlocker as a pre birthday present- super dooper new one.  Seems extravagant but YOLO so going to use it when I can.  On the health front, The Marsden disagree with my local hospital on the scan results.  I can’t take much from that as its not just the current scan that counts but each appointment brings a fresh anxiety and I have to learn to get on with it and do what I can to enjoy whatever life I have.    So having bought some lovely Stenzo jersey fabric from the Sewcial Studio online I decided it should be made into a McCalls 7432 with a slightly modified neckline and pockets.  I had earmarked the fabric for a top so didn’t have quite enough to do full length sleeves in one piece so  I cut cuffs and added them on to the sleeves I could make.  I added a neckband, inserting it with the lt shoulder open rather than as a circle and dividing it into quarters etc.  I prefer it as you can just chop any excess off and you get the join at the left side of the neck rather than at the centre back (or centre front if you get it wrong…..) as you finish the left shoulder and neck together.  I’m not sure the pockets really work as they hit the hips at the flare of the skirt but I wanted them so in they went and I used form band at the seams where they are joined (under stitching the seams to keep them inside) as well as on the shoulder seams. I inserted the sleeves on the flat and completed the side seams, pocket bag seams and arm seams in one continuous sew.




I had made another M7432 as well as I used some Poppy EU ltd jersey fabric bought in a shop approx 10-14 miles away from me.  I fell in love with the feel and look of it and normally only use this shop as a reference point as they have been rude personally to me on more than one occasion and I’ve witnessed rude behaviour toward another client in the shop in front of several shoppers.  I try not to buy anything from them but every so often as I can’t help going in and schmoozing around the shop loveliness I find something  I can’t be without and have to buy it there and then.  This M7432 was made with a high neckline and no pockets and the drape of the skirt is better without the pockets.  I really like wearing it, surprising as its not really my style.  Its simple to make and quick to come together.  I really want to try a v neckline next but will have to wait to use the fabric bought at 1st for Fabrics online for my birthday (not for a few days grrr and it will have to be washed first!). The lovely package arrived but its been hidden away with my overlocker cones and grandchild friendly fabric……its going to be awesome!   Karina from lifting pins and needles has posted a YouTube tutorial on how to do V neckbands so thanks to her I’m determined to give it a go and either use this pattern or the one she uses Simplicity 8548 which I think is the same as New Look 6298.  Thanks for the inspiration Karina.




Well I did some other sewing as well:  Love Sewing magazine had a threadcount 1902 pattern not too long ago so I gave that a bash.  I’ve got a few t shirt patterns and have been fixated on the Coco recently (TATB) after hating it initially when I tried it a while ago.  Although Im not the best sewist around I think I have improved a bit over the few years I’ve been sewing and found the coco neckline less of an obstacle recently.  Time to try another pattern I thought so gave this one an outing…..well its massive.  I went by the finished garment size and found that I needed to reduce the armscye, shoulder length, side seams ……ooooh annoying.  I used Stuart Hilliard jersey bought from my new favourites….Ist for Fabrics who always package the fabric beautifully and send a lovely message with thread and just general loveliness.  I don’t know why it took me so long to find them.




I can’t leave it there, hubby needed a warm fleece quickly and we couldn’t be bothered to drive to the shops or even online shop so having a bit of techno fleece in the cupboard from several moons ago I quickly ran up a jacket for him with instructions to wear it in garden and home as it was less than brilliant.  I didn’t have a long enough separating zipper and there wasn’t really enough fleece in one colour way plus the arms were going to be too short ….oh my goodness…. no end of worries over this one but it got sewn and ‘ere tiz’as we say.




You can’t see the pictures well you complain —ah sorry, rubbish photographer.  I also made two Jalie 3137 polo shirts.  – one for a 5 year old and one for the hubby.  These went down better than expected and the bigger boy wears his a lot.  His was made from Girl Charlee fabric (online purchase) and little uns was made from free gift jersey from 1st for Fabrics also from online order.  I won’t post a picture of the little chap but his had a pocket on the front and it was an easier sew than I expected but not without some difficulties.  I found YouTube videos that were helpful and haven’t linked them but they are easily found.

So I think thats your lot lovely IBFs.  Another blog is done, not sure how many more there will be but just for now ….Keep Sewing.

Closet Case Patterns – mid rise Ginger Jeans


Well they are not ginger and they are perhaps not perfect but this was a lovely pattern that came together easily and quickly.


Lets start at the beginning.  I had my eye on the pattern last year and persuaded hubby that this was a great birthday present (he always likes ideas for gifts and never sticks to just one present).  I have got used to the idea of PDF patterns as being a great idea although I nearly got caught out by my computer failing out of the blue at the end of last year.  Belt and braces being my middle names saved the day there.  So I duly printed and stuck the pattern together, ummed and aaahhed and got on with sewing everything but the gingers.  I think I was a bit in awe of them, all those perfect top stitched, flat felled, well fitted, happy jeaned people on social media flashing their skills and joy at me, dissing RTW as poor fitting cousins, hardly worthy of a second glance.  The thing is I seem to fit in to ready to wear jeans okay and find them good value for money.  I also think the fabrics that they use in RTW are often far superior to my ability to source the perfect project companion.   I just like/love sewing.

Common sense prevailed re making these little puppies up and I had some geometric stretch denim (ish) material which was a bargain price in the stash and for the life of me couldn’t think what  else I would use it for.  It’s original purchase purpose escapes me, truth be known it was probably the price that attracted me.  I thought I would make the gingers out of this material as a wearable toile (my get out of jail phrase for anything that might go wrong).  The material was stretch but not so much across the weft but more down the vertical line (warp?) which I thought was a bit odd but even more reason to use this stuff and try it out.  According to my measurements I cut out a size 10 in pattern and fabrics for the stovepipe design. I decided to sew the pockets and stays in lining fabric, budget priced cotton lawn and faced the waistband in the same. I interfaced the fly thingys but not the waistband.   I never think of this type of finish being jeans as all my jeans tend to be all over denim but it matters not what you call them as far as I am concerned.

All the fiddly little bits are dealt with first in the pattern directions, the pocket assembly with facings and lining and interfacing bits and bobs before attacking the fly zip insertion.  Now because usually you have the right side of the lining in the pocket it made me doubt myself more than once making these up with the right side of the lining facing into the inside of the jeans but I did as I was told.  I struggled a bit with the idea of having the lining wrong side showing inside the pocket but it does mean that when you look inside your jeans the right side of the lining smiles back.  I used the instructions that come with the PDF but belt and braces again I used the blog on the closet case site and watched a YouTuber video that a vlogger had made to help with getting the construction right.  I tend to cut out one day and start construction the next which I find suits me otherwise I tend to skip transferring the notches and markings properly as I get too impatient with myself and inevitably bodge the lot.

When it came to the zipper fly construction (in spite of making trousers and skirts quite successfully with them previously, I have never really understood this type of insertion) I read the accompanying blog post and didn’t really get it however I totally got it when I got near the end of making these up. It was a proper job light bulb learning and I now understand why you position the zip where you do and the effect it has on the depth of the fly to the trouser or skirt front.   The waist size is not affected. Consequently these do not have much of an overlap on the fly but I now know how to avoid this in the future (wearable toile only for this pair).  I didn’t worry too much about flat felled seams but overlocked and did two lines of top stitching on the overlocked seam (from the right side). I think this is known as a faux flat fell seam. I did it in a similar colour to the fabric rather than in a highly visible contrast stitching where every stitch is a potentially glaring error . I made a small slit at the ankle on the outer seam having seen a Mimi G tutorial for a pattern I haven’t got ( I think it is an Autumn 18 new release one) as I liked the finish. 007369d1-243b-4d28-8101-9b5c0e570d2b-e1537730107245.jpeg

I did have to look up how to do a blind hem and I think this is the first blind hem I’ve done on this machine. For the waistband I decided to insert the belt loops under the lower end of the waistband for strength  (tack them in position right sides facing before attaching the waistband) as I often end up using a belt when the jeans loosen up during wear.  I attached the waistband facing  and when all constructed and top stitched I flipped the belt loops up allowing a bit of play at the lower end and top stitched the other end of the loops in on the top of waistband using the existing topstitching as a guide.  I forgot to interface where the button and buttonhole will go on the waistband and jibbed out on doing a buttonhole just in case it all went wrong cos as things stood these might be worn. Instead I did a hook and bar closure more in keeping with a fitted trouser and I didn’t do rivets on the pockets either.  The back pockets were too low which a few people have made comments on so I did these at the end of construction, a little higher than the pattern markings. My fly shield was not brilliantly placed but as the fly was not my best work I didn’t fuss.

My biggest surprise was that these fitted with no fit adjustments (other than about 2 inches off the length and trimming the excess off the waistband) as normally I have to faff about quite a bit especially with the yoke pieces and crotch depth as well. Heather Lou comments on how she adjusted this after pattern tester feedback and released an updated pattern. I love the pocket stays but not sure how they would have turned out in denim (maybe a bit bulky?) and I love the waistband being faced in lawn. Really happy with these and if I didn’t have so many pairs of jeans I would make another pair right away.  I think I will probably will buy the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans as well as I can’t resist something everyone (?) else comments on favourably but so glad I made these and would highly recommend them.

So it seems the big four patterns will have to wait a bit longer, I’m still sewing the Indie ones! Okay IBFs ….see you soon, just off to cut out a proper Nina Lee Carnaby dress in needlecord. Let’s hope it turns out okay. Happy sewing.